Indieness

Creative director Heidi Slimane and Celine revealed “The Age of Indieness” for the Fall/Winter 2023 ready-to-wear collection at The Wiltern Theater in Los Angeles, one of the City’s most famous Art Deco Buildings that unmistakably evokes the glamor of Old Hollywood. The collection showcased eighty-seven looks with a predominantly neutral color palette featuring navy blues, black, brown, cream, white, gold, and silver. The designs incorporate influences from the 2007 show Gossip Girl, including the use of ties and scarves. It is very on brand for Slimane, as he has a history of bringing rock n' roll influences into his luxury designs from his time at Dior Homme and Yves Saint Laurent. For example, The Rolling Stones inspired the slim cut pant and  scarf look along with faux fur. The collection features clever layering, mixed with belts and bags, to create an on the go atmosphere. Slimane seamlessly blended the rebellious energy of music with Celine's elevated staples, adding a late 2000s verve to the collection.

Celine's 2023 Fall/Winter Collection reintroduces some popular trends from the early 2000s, resulting in a distinct look. The collection bears a strong resemblance to the fashion worn by the characters on the popular television show Gossip Girl, which is set in the Upper East Side of New York. The "Gossip Girl look" has been a popular and timeless style since the show first aired. The collection showcases skinny jeans, which are making a comeback earlier than anticipated, as well as faux fur jackets, thin ties, and loose-fitting sequined gowns. These items are all signature looks and accessories of the show's main characters, representing a particular lifestyle. The Collection draws inspiration from Indiness and the major trends of the early 2000s. This influence is also seen in the presence of scarves, low-slung belts, moto boots, fedoras, and large belted handbags. Additionally, the collection also features specific details, such as unbrushed hair, which resemble the signature look of Serena Vanderwoodson from the popular television show Gossip Girl, which seems to have had a significant impact on the collection's overall design.

The Gossip girl character, Serena van der Woodson, is ultimately based off of and inspired by Kate Moss. Her style is a blend of vintage and trendy pieces that creates a boho chic appearance with a rebellious twist, similar to her style icon, Kate Moss. The show’s costume designer, Eric Daman, explained how the inspiration behind Serena’s look was to be a “nonchalant fashion look that feels like you're totally not put-together” and for it to look like “you put on whatever's next to the bed, and you look amazing” (Huffpost, 2012). While Serena showcases a girly side, her choice of dresses incorporates quirky details that express her unique style. For example, looking at Figure 1 features a casual yet funky look created by pairing a sequin dress print with a polka dot print scarf and belt to tie the whole look together. Serena fearlessly dons eccentric garments that she loves and can easily pull off, always adding a unique touch to her outfits before stepping out of the house. Daman expressed how he wanted her character’s look to scream "I've traveled to Europe '' and for it to have that je ne sais quoi factor (Huffpost, 2012). For example, Figures 2-3 incorporate a tie looking scarf added to each outfit in order to tie the look together, as well as a handbag, which is a signature piece in each look. Additionally, her fashion choices are influenced by the classic elegance of the Upper East Side, which is incorporated into her wardrobe and coincidentally enough, through this collection itself. Wearing jackets is also one of Serena's signature looks, as she owns an extensive collection of various styles, lengths, and fabrics. Her jacket collection includes vibrant hues, muted shades, and earthy tones. Figures 2-4 have a variety of outerwear from the neutral colored jacket, to the silver sparkly jacket, and the black vest which creates versatility. Skinny jeans were frequently seen on Serena’s character and they play a huge role in Celine’s collection as well, despite the current trend leaning towards wide-leg and boot-cut styles, skinny jeans are making a comeback. Figure 3 features a pair of skinny jeans paired with Serena’s signature boots which are also fairly consistent throughout Celine’s collection. 

In contrast, Blair Waldorf’s character style is significantly more detail-oriented. Her style embodies a classic, glamorous American aesthetic with a strong influence from old Hollywood. Daman drew inspiration from icons such as Audrey Hepburn and Anna Wintour's meticulous attention to detail in her own attire, to which Blair's approach to fashion was compared to (Huffpost, 2012). It's evident that Anna Wintour played a significant role in crafting Blair's appearance, as her look was well-planned yet appeared effortless and natural. Regarding the collection, Figures 6 and 7 contain very preppy looks that are fairly similar to the classic Chanel boxy suit jackets and school girl pleated skirts but made edgy by pairing the look with combat boots. Congruently, Figures 5 and 8 show a more casual look but still very elegant and put together with the para military field jacket in Figure 8. The slouchy bags in these looks are very reminiscent of the boho style seen in festival wear that is currently trending.

Heidi Slimane's signature style first emerged in his fall 2000 Yves Saint Laurent collection, "Black Tie," which he developed further when he became the creative director of Dior Homme in 2001. His slim silhouettes became popular and even attracted female customers, influencing mass fashion. When Slimane returned to Yves Saint Laurent in 2012 as the creative director for both men's and women's clothing, his offerings remained noticeably tight-fitting. While his silhouettes have become more relaxed since he joined Celine, they seem to have backtracked and reverted to more of the skinny jean silhouette for this particular collection. 

Eric Daman and Heidi Slimane are both fashion designers with unique styles, but they differ in many aspects. Eric Daman is known for his work as a costume designer, particularly for television shows like "Gossip Girl" and "Sex and the City." He is known for his ability to blend vintage and modern styles to create unique looks that express the character's personality. Daman's style is playful, colorful, and eclectic, and he has a reputation for using high-end designer pieces alongside vintage finds. He often incorporates bold accessories, statement jewelry, and layering to create dynamic outfits. In contrast, Heidi Slimane is a fashion designer who is best known for his work with luxury brands like Yves Saint Laurent and Dior. His style is edgy, minimalist, and often androgynous. Slimane is known for his focus on clean lines, black-and-white color schemes, and sharp tailoring. He has a reputation for creating designs that are both timeless and contemporary, often featuring rock-and-roll influences. In terms of their approach to fashion, Eric Daman's work is more playful and experimental, while Heidi Slimane's work is more refined and focused. Daman's focus is on creating looks that express the character's personality and emotions, while Slimane's focus is on creating designs that embody a specific aesthetic. Both designers have a distinct vision and approach to fashion, and their work has had a significant impact on the industry.

Overall, Celine's Fall/Winter Collection for 2023 reintroduces some popular trends from the early 2000s, resulting in a unique and distinct fashion statement. The collection is reminiscent of the clothing worn by the characters in the popular TV show, Gossip Girl, set in New York's Upper East Side. The "Gossip Girl look" has been an enduring and widely popular fashion style since the show first aired. The Collection features several signature items that represent the lifestyle and attire of the show's main characters, including skinny jeans that are making an earlier comeback than anticipated, faux fur jackets, thin ties, and flowy sequined gowns. The collection takes inspiration from the Indie and major trends of the early 2000s. This influence is also evident in the collection's accessories, such as scarves, low-slung belts, moto boots, fedoras, and oversized belted handbags.